South West Dubs

Posted: **Fri Jan 03, 2025 4:29 pm**

'ello,

Anyone got any tips or sources for advice for rebuilding Splitties?

I have a set of Oz Turbos that I need to slap back together with new outer lips and old nuts and bolts. I'm after advice on products and process really so I do not fuck it and have to split them again.

Posted: **Sat Jan 04, 2025 10:20 am**

Bring the hate - but in the past I have put a thin bead of tiger seal on the mating surfaces, mount together loosely, then more tiger seal around the joins, leave for a bit and then tighten to 'spec'. But I always have issues with sealing so maybe don't listen to me!

Posted: **Sat Jan 04, 2025 4:10 pm**

Cheers Chris. I've heard Tiger seal is what to use, but then conflicting reports that just black sealant is fine too.

Posted: **Sat Jan 04, 2025 11:50 pm**

Yeh you can have the hate Chris …

My 2p’s worth, make sure all mating faces on the lips, barrels and centres (pending on how ya mounting them etc) are bare metal, degreased and I key those surfaces with 60/80 grit sandpaper.

Controversially… I don’t mastic the faces… I reckon you can google it and it’s 50/50 lol

. Personally I have done both over the years and had more success without.
I torque up in an opposite bolt pattern as per wheel spec, degrease the joint again, then lay a thin bead 4-6mm of mastic (tiger seal etc, I use ct1). Let that cure for 20 hours and then go over again with a bigger bead 8-10mm pending the gap size of the lip/barrel etc.

Then…. Stand back, admire ya work and pray to god the tyre fitters don’t smash the crap out of them lol….or… they leak

Posted: **Mon Jan 06, 2025 8:16 am**

Cheers Isaac. Will give it a go. Might test two with mastic'ed faces and two without and see which one leak lol

Posted: **Sun Jan 26, 2025 10:18 am**

I've always run a bead on the faces like Mr Quick - 1 out of 8 leaked so it mostly worked for me!

To add to all the above good advice, I like to run a couple of lines of tape around the barrel and lip when doing the final thick bead for nice neat lines, then pull off before it's dried. Just makes it look extra nice for absolutely nobody to see when it has a tyre on

.

Fairy liquid on the finger also helps for a nice finish.

Posted: **Tue Feb 04, 2025 11:04 pm**

biggest mistake people make is expecting the sealant to stick to a smooth surface..........

the area you want the sealant to stick (ideally bare metal), scratch up with 40-60grit paper, panel wipe

dry build

apply a very thin bead of p.u anti-shrink sealant, in the main sealing area crevice..........this minimises air bubble in larger beads

let dry 24hrs

use scotchbrite to take shine off sealant, panelwipe

then mask up 2 nice lines on lip and barrel, so when peel off it leaves a nice clean sealant line

apply a fat bead of sealant, over the top of the thin bead.......smoothing out to the masking tape

let dry 24hrs...............and hopefully you wont have any sealing issues

*** any half inch or inch lips that curve back in on themselves, apply a bead of sealant on the very tip of the mating faces, let dry for 24hrs after doing bolts up............then follow the above steps ***

Posted: **Mon Nov 24, 2025 9:55 am**

Update on the OZ Turbo's.

Got some time to get them all together and sealed. I went with the no sealant on the mating faces, so will have to see how it goes

Posted: **Sun Dec 07, 2025 10:30 am**

Posted: **Mon Dec 08, 2025 3:46 pm**

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South West Dubs

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